Sharps Paper Cartridge


I stock several different lengths that cover most gun-bullet combinations.  To get started we need to determine the length of tube you require.   To do this place a dry bullet of the type you intend to use into the chamber, lightly push it forward and measure from the base of the bullet to the chamber face.   Then I will need to know the ring tail length, if you are using a bullet of this design.  These two dimensions together will be the length required.

My tubes are designed with an internal diameter of .47 inch.   The tube can be flared a little if needed.

Paper on base, and cartridge assembly:

There are several ways. The one you heard me talk about is as follows.

Cut the hair curler paper into 5/8 to 3/4 squares. I take about 20 sheets of paper, and staple along one edge, mark it into squares and cut with sharp scissors.

Lay these out on a table, (careful not to sneeze). Take a butter lid and put a puddle of Elmer's white glue and spread it out. Dip the end of the tube in the glue, then press the tube onto the paper, place open end down in a loading block and arrange the tubes with the corners touching. Light the edge of one and just wait. It will burn the excess off and set the glue. This needs to be done while the glue is still wet, so I keep it at about 25 at a time. You will need to do maybe 5 until you get the hang of it. Sometimes the flame will jump over and burn out the middle, just re-glue and go again.

Some more tips:

I would load about ten rounds without doing any inside coating to see how your gun ejects the tubes. If they hang up, you may need to brush some shellac on the inside before doing any assembly. This stiffens the paper for better break up.

Charge Starting Point:

The load should be between 38 and 42 grains of Swiss 2f. Other brands can be considered. I pick Swiss due to low residue. This will leave an air gap, and you will need to glue a card wad over the powder. This keeps the powder tight toward the back and flush against the pressure plate to get the best spark transfer. The wad also prevents a mess in your cartridge box if you knock off a bullet. It severs to help with fast ignition, tube break up, and safety.

I make two dowels, one is 7/16 diameter cut square and fine sanded then waxed. This is used to seat the wad. The next dowel is a 1/2-inch diameter, I sand a bull nose on one end to be used to flare the tube a little to ease adding the bullet.

To add the bullet, and after the card wad is dried, I like to use fingernail polish on the ringtail to glue to the inside of the tube. Push it into the tube, twist and back into the loading block. Once dry dip lube, or melt lube and paint on the groove area keeping the nose clean. You are ready for the range.

Overview
Cartridge Illustration
Process
Step 1Step 2
Step 3Step 4

Loading the cartridge:

After adding your preferred amount of powder with a card wad the tube may not be full. The air gap is okay, and filler is not recommended.  I would suggest that you glue a card wad over the powder in all cases. The glued in card wad helps the tube break up. These guns are designed to work with less than a full chamber. The best material I have found for the card wad is a 45-caliber disc punched from cereal boxes, or from Circle Fly. This also provides some protection if you knock a bullet off the tube in your cartridge box. No powder spills, making a mess and a potential safety problem. It also keeps the powder tight up against the paper closure for fast consistent ignition.

The bullet tail needs to be clean and dry and is held in place with fingernail polish, DUCO Cement, super glue or white Elmer’s Glue.   Again, there are other adhesives you can use and you need to experiment to find one that you like.   I do not recommend Gorilla Glue, or other products like this.

Once the round is dry, dip lube the bullet to the tube or paint the lube on the bullet with an acid brush. In all cases keep the nose of the bullet clean for best down range results..